Day 6 and We Can Still See Dubrovnik!
We sail on a gentle north westerly breeze down to Cavtat, the southernmost port in Croatia. We drop the anchor, get ourselves settled and relax over a cool G&T. Steve looks across and asks “what’s that town over there? Dubrovnik, replies Maggie, “Dubrovnik, day 6 and we can still see Dubrovnik”?
When night falls the lights come onto high beam as the queen of the Adriatic beckons all and sundry. We take our dinner on the terrace of one of the restaurants on the quay and all of us choose pork spare ribs in plum sauce. The mega yachts line up along the quay preparing for their exit from or entry to Croatia. We don’t even try to tie to the quay and anchor instead alongside the pine trees on the western side of the bay. The mountains along the border of Croatia and Bosnia Herzegovina soar skywards at the back of the houses that line the water’s edge of this exciting little town.
Our first week has been a fantastic combination of the very best that Croatia has to offer on several fronts – the majesty of Dubrovnik that easily survives its’ annual onslaught in total contrast with Kobas, Prozura and Soplinara, where the three populations combined could hardly muster an AFL football team. Then there was the National Park of Mljet with its’ Lake Jezera encircling the 14th. century monastery settled magically on an island in the middle.
In between of course is the Adriatic Sea – blue, flat and barely rippled by 6 to8 knots of the prevailing maestral-just a few flecks of white suggesting that it might build, but it dies instead. On one morning we strike up a “race “ with a Norwegian flagged Jeanneau Sun Odyssey 409, which keeps pace and passes us until they make a single mistake and we restore our ascendancy- which should have been a walk in the park considering we are 2.5 metres longer.
On the 20 mile leg to Cavtat we start with promise suggested by a gentle breeze but it doesn’t fill and we motor for an hour or so on a total glass-out before a dark blue wind line crawls across from the horizon. While the sea is still a sheet of glass Maggie floats across the scene with Dubrovnik in the background. A totally surrealistic image with the high salinity of the water obviating the need for swim strokes of any sort. Then the breeze fills and we drift into Cavtat on a broad reach- magic.
The waterfront in Cavtat is classic and dinner at one of the restaurants that open to the promenade reveals excellent service, excellent quality and very reasonable prices. The customs office and the police handle our exit with a smile and courtesy and on the next morning we are on our way to Montenegro.
Dubrovnik hasn’t moved.
You can link to next years Croatia Montenegro Rally here.